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Column
How Omi beef is graded and why buying a whole carcass changes what we can serve, what actually happens to dough inside a stone oven, and how to choose wine without reading the whole blackboard. These are the things we get asked at the counter, written down.
What do these columns cover?
Three subjects, mostly: Omi beef and what buying a whole carcass changes, the stone oven and what the fire does to the dough, and how to pick wine off the blackboard. They are written from the counter rather than from a book, so where we are unsure we say so.
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The questions we are asked most at the counter are about the beef and the fire. Which part of the Omi beef is this, and why does it change through the year? Why does a stone oven make a different pizza from a gas deck? Which wine on the blackboard goes with the grill, and which with the margherita? None of these need a long answer at the table, but they are worth writing down properly — so we do, here.
Reading is one thing; the oven is another. It is lit from 17:00 every day, two minutes from the east exit of Kusatsu Station.